Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts

12 March 2014

Views of Russia which may surprise you!

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You’ll never see these flowers in a

Russian Hospital !

 

Occupations...

Optician stores... that don’t adjust what they sell. We assumed the people who sold us glasses would adjust them, but they can’t... and don’t worry about it.  Typical of many people here who don’t want to expand their knowledge to gain more customers.

Pharmacies rarely have a pharmacist on site, just clerks.  A written prescriptions is only necessary for some psychological drugs.  What’s good is that there’s no charade of professionalism by placing a personalized label on a vial... pills are sold in the same package they are shipped in to the pharmacy from elsewhere in Russia, Germany, India, wherever.

Supermarket managers feel in an elevated position, but are not eager to talk to customers.  They don’t have a badge with a photo and have no customer desk to welcome you.   

Russians favor black more than most Americans.  It’s easier to keep your clothes looking clean when you have a car.  Now I see splashes of color more, including orange, which is surprisingly popular.

Apartment hallways are often drab, dirty, and poorly maintained.  I’ve never seen an inspection form posted in an elevator. Elevators are often vandalized and have graffiti.  Russians often don’t seem to care much about poor and unsafe building conditions outside of their own apartments.  Exterior appearance, what realtors call Curb Appeal, gets little attention.

Flowers are not welcome at hospitals (they’re considered unsanitary).  Are Cut Flowers Really Bad for Hospital Rooms? refutes this belief. Russians don’t send Get Well cards but telephone instead.

Russian cities don’t have good and bad neighborhoods... no ghettos as in America.

A thought... Russians mostly live in vertical villages, in apartments, Americans horizontally in houses.

Laundry soap is sold in small boxes, the size of a large paperback.  Large economy sizes don’t attract Russians.  Small sizes remain popular perhaps partly because many people carry groceries home from the store.

Smoking...

  60% of Russian men smoke, 20% of the women... but younger women smoke 10 times more than older women, so this is trending up.  In contrast, 20.5% of American men smoke, 15.8 of American women. smoking United States  (If you figure that Russia has 1/2 the population of the US, but their men smoke three times as much...  the result is more deaths from cigarettes in the Russian male population than in American men).

  You can buy smokes for 60 rubles, around $1.50.  Cigarette prices 2013 Bloomberg.com  A pack of 20 Marlboro cigarettes costs $1.74 in Russia, compared with $6.36 in the U.S.  Soon an increase will make an average pack price double to $3.00.

  The Russian government has banned smoking at work, at theatres, museums, beaches, parks, playgrounds, restaurants, hotels, markets,  government offices, apartment lobbies, schools, hospitals, clinics, all trains, buses, planes, within 10 meters of bus stops, and railroad stations. 

  Cigarettes cannot be displayed in stores, only a price list.  No cigarette advertising is allowed, no more sponsored events, TV and movies may no longer show smoking, unless artistically necessary.  The ban on smoking in restaurants, trains and hotels will be effective this June.  RIA NOVOSTI  The Russian prison system will have separate sections for smokers.

  I was surprised to see that unified steps to discourage smoking haven’t been possible in the US because smoking regulation is left to each of the 50 states, local towns and cities, territories, and tribal areas.  European countries are well ahead of Russia with smoking bans. 

Food...

Prepared food generally has fewer or no additives than that sold in America.  Russia has stricter rules about healthy food... Little or no GMO grain imports.  Medicated and bleached chicken,  and beef with hormones are frequently refused from the USA and elsewhere.

Most mayonnaise is sold in squeeze bags, not bottles or jars... ketchup, too.  Russian mayonnaise has sunflower oil.

Butter in Russia has no salt.  That’s good for lower blood pressure, but the missing iodization means higher levels of retardation.

Bread has no sodium propionate to retard spoilage.   An extra loaf lasts a long time if placed in the freezer. 

Cheese is more likely to get mold because of few or no preservatives.  You can keep it fresh by putting a piece of cloth soaked with vinegar in the holder.

Russian behavior...

Men shake hands, but usually look away while doing so.  My mother’s advice to ‘smile, look them in the eye, and use a firm  handshake’ doesn’t seem to apply.

Russians mind their own business.  They aren’t quick to call the police to complain as many do in America.  In America the police seem to be everywhere, but police in Russia are often absent, don’t swagger, don’t feel they are paramilitaries on terrorism alert.  However, they may not be available when you need them.  They respond to a crime, but usually have no interest in prevention, or detection.

It’s very hard to scare a Russian.  They are sympathetic about 9/11 but have seen much worse without panicking.

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17 October 2011

My Chancy Attempt at Russian Rye Bread

 

A kneading break after a 5 minute workout.

Hesitation and procrastination...

I was worried baking bread would be more chaos than Larissa could stand, maybe with yeasted dough growing quickly to fill the kitchen, and bulging out the door. 

First, I was going to wait until she was gone for the day, but then I thought that was a little sneaky, and anyway she might come home (not the first time) to a smoking disaster.  She stayed calm, helpful, and a good sport about the mess in her kitchen.

 

Finding ingredients...

Our two neighborhood supermarkets in our part of St Petersburg have no

  • onion powder
  • unbleached wheat four
  • un-bromated flour
  • molasses
  • malt or
  • dried mustard. 

Without the right ingredients it’s hard to make a good bread.

 

20 Steps to get started baking bread...

If you break apart something you plan to do, and figure out what’s the first step, second step, and so on... why then you have enough confidence to start.

After checking many recipes for Russian Rye Bread, I selected two authentic recipes [listed below] that appeared possible for a beginner to bake. Then I melded what seemed sensible into 20 steps. 

The 3 1/2 hours span these steps take allows gluten and other ingredients to become digestible.  If bread disagrees with you, it’s probably because now in 2011 it is made -start to finish- in two hours, an unhealthy fast bread process which the baking industry has foisted on consumers since the 1950s.  Dough is best if allowed to ferment for more than 6 hours.

 

Some cogitations and adjustments along the way...

The recipes weren’t clear about when and how to add the wheat flour.

I found it necessary to switch to a larger mixing bowl half way through the recipe.

We didn’t have a metal sheet so I resorted to circular baking tins.

Two loaves on a cooling rack. 

 

My lugubrious thoughts on trying my bread...

That evening it just wasn’t edible. It would have been easier to saw wood than to cut this bread. It hurt my old teeth and gums. The taste wasn’t good. 

That night  I had dejected thoughts.

    These loaves could be doorstops. 

    A piece of this bread would be better than the proverbial sheriff’s badge, better than a small Bible in the left breast pocket, as it could easily stop a bullet.

    This bread could parry a knife attack!

    If you smacked someone’s face with it, it would leave a nasty bruise.    

    If dropped on your foot, your toes would hurt for a week.

But with the new day...

OK bread that pleased the Russian wife!

We had a few pieces with soup at dinner.  Now cool, the crusty bread has become softer and Larissa liked the taste.  Noosha the parakeet eagerly took crumbs from a piece wedged in the side of her cage.

 

What to learn from my bread experience? 

I need practice!  I found some good ideas in the Hubpages [listed below].

Start with pleasantly warm water, not tepid, not hot.  Error on the side of a few more ounces of water, as wetter is better in dough handling, even if you have to knead in the bowl instead of on the board.  In the oven, the yeast will stop acting and the excess water will evaporate.

Understand what punching down means.  I  took this literally and joked that it’s preferable to hitting one’s wife,  Actually, the French call this step turning the dough... moving the dough and gently folding it over on itself to keep as much gas in as possible, not deflate the mixture.

 I will...

  • Add a pinch of salt
  • just a teaspoon of vinegar... or none
  • use caraway spice only
  • use just a pinch of baker’s yeast
  • allow more rising time
  • use a baking tray
  • add a pan of water to the bottom of the oven to help initial oven spring
  • use the central oven rack
  • try the Lahey method... let the dough sit for 18 hours, with no kneading

Humbled...

I’ll keep at it until I report back with good results.  This first attempt tastes better with time.  And  Russian rye is famous for keeping teeth white!

Notes worth checking!

Two bread recipes

Russian Rye recipe from King Arthur Flour, credited to Anya Von Bremzen, Please to the Table, the Russian Cookbook.

Russian Black Rye by Natalya Mann, Missouri translator originally from Volgograd.

Hubpages

      Never punch down the dough, by John D. Lee

      Baking bread easy, by Steph Harris

More valuable information

      Nourished Magazine... How bread became a negative.   .

      Bread Experience... A great reference.

      Let Time Do The Work...  Mark Bittman, NYT, about Jim Lahey

 

Comments, suggestions, and tips are very welcome!  Or see other ways to communicate on the Wibiya strip below.

 

21 September 2011

The Quick Loss of Good Russian Bread

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Unlabeled unsliced bread in plastic wrap.  Baked in-house at Season Supermarket.

Missing wonderful bread...

Traditional bread is robust with texture, smell, and taste.  It’s a high point of our village summer.  But why is it more prevalent in Zaloz’ye than St Petersburg?  Maybe because change hasn’t much come to the village yet.

Bread is a sentimental icon of Russia.  Many writers state that Russians continue to have deep love for their historic bread.  It is symbolic of life and therefore should be treated with reverence, never played with.

Bread was missing in the famines of 1891, 1921, 1933 (The Holodomor)... the first partly caused by Tsarist ineptness, the others by the evil of communists, especially Stalin.  Bread was craved during the Leningrad Blockade.  1 

 

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An expensive and confused product from Hlebny Dom (Bread House), a Finnish conglomerate that was the first to start selling sliced bread in Russia, around 1995.  The package says English Breakfast but has a Scottish plaid design.  Flavor not too bad, nor too good.

A switch to a market economy has changed much that can’t be undone.

Since the end of the Soviet Union in 1991, most people have been too distracted to worry about preserving traditions. Russians like the range of new breads, some good, while others are obviously low nutrition bleached squishy soft bad buys.  This trend is parallel to what happened to food in the West.

Old time breads now have less shelf space, aren’t subsidized, and appear to have lost quality. I am surprised how easily a culture can put aside something considered precious for many years, shed nostalgia and turn to something new.  2,3

I think it’s a positive that, after 20 years of commercialism and chaos, classic breads can still be found in supermarkets.  But still, I can’t find any that match the texture, flavor, and smell of the grey bread we buy from our village autolavkas.  The best bread is made in a small bakery in Zabelina, the little town next to us.

One of life’s great pleasures...

It was in 1963 when visiting my aunt in Paris I realized food can be a great pleasure of life.  I was raised on soft doughy sliced bleached white bread and 1950s American cooking, with some Scottish dishes slipped in. 

I remember astonishingly good Parisian unsliced bread sold off the shelf with just its crust for pajamas ... and similar fabulous bread in 2000 St Petersburg. 

At dinner we still hold our bread in the left hand while using the fork with the right, and lean a piece against the plate when the left hand is busy.  The customs of eating bread remain, but is it of the same quality?  

Questions

What is Russian black bread?  Most recipes have both rye and all purpose unbleached wheat flour.  True Russian bread has close to 85% rye and may include fennel.  Some food blogs inaccurately refer to it as pumpernickel or sourdough bread.

Where can I buy ingredients such as unbleached stoneground rye and wheat flour, sourdough or active yeast starter, malt and spices?  Most of these ingredients are not available in local markets.  I need to take a taxi to Globus Foods.

What affects quality?  Good bread was subsidized during Soviet times and each variety had published baking standards, called GOCT.  The bread we bought from a local kiosk, even in 2000, was unsliced, aromatic, and full of flavor.  If bread is sliced, it must be wrapped, and then there’s an incentive to add preservatives and other unhealthful ingredients.

What are the differences between bread products?  

Can I bake it at home?   Why do very few city people bake their own bread?  For starters, communal apartments were not practical for baking at home, and besides bread was inexpensive when available.

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Still plenty of traditional choices, but now most are sliced, and all are packaged in plastic.  Pyatorochka Supermarket.

Times change...

There are food blog posts on Russian traditional bread with beautiful illustrations, but most don’t mention how mediocre the bread market has become.

This month I’ve been looking around our two neighborhood  supermarkets, Pyatorochka and Seazon, and smaller grocery stores, checking for baking ingredients and which classic breads are still available.

I continue to ask Larissa questions about bread.  She thinks my question about bread color was intended to get a reaction... Why is black bread not, and grey bread not, too?

Some facts...

Russian butter is unsalted.

Many Russians know little about toast!

Black bread is for soups, and also served with the second plate of dinner.

White bread is for tea.

Russian bread often has no preservatives, so it may get moldy after a few days.

Waiting for toast to pop!

We enjoy toast.  The best bread for toasting anywhere is traditional village grey, which some identify as Ukrainsky bread, something close to what Americans call sourdough.

Becoming kneady...

Into our 10th floor kitchen... soon we go... to bake something like Russian bread!

Comments very welcome!

Can you think of examples of quick cultural loss in your country?  How do you feel about such changes?  Is it better to view these changes with acceptance or nostalgia?

More Information...

1 http://www.russkiymir.ru/russkiymir/en/magazines/archive/2011/04/article0021.html The Leningrad Blockade as remembered by one woman.

2 http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/20370/russian-sourdough-no-more  Lucifer posted about how bread has deteriorated in quality. Excellent comments follow.

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=101855310 NPR It Takes More Dough to Buy Russian Bread.  People are buying more meat, less bread.